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Day I: Overview of Textured Knitting

Introduction
Preparing this project has been educational for me. It has enabled me to play with a palate of yarns and stitch patterns, I probably wouldn't have otherwise used. At the very least, I now have a more coherent idea of what makes an Aran pattern pleasing to me, and my goal is for you, the reader, through the discussion, the demonstration swatches and other materials, to determine those characteristics that please you the most, when making textured projects.

Our Wonderful Suppliers

It cannot be said enough that the suppliers, those who participate in KBTH, and others, have made this investigation possible. When swatching started getting a little expensive, and I began to e-mail various ones, they all responded, some offering before I could even ask. If I requested a skein, they sent two. If I said maybe two skeins, they sent three or four, and it goes on and on. All sent first quality yarns that we use and discuss all the time. Other suppliers volunteered to supply contest prizes, and one of our members, Vicki Meldrum designed our mascot, Happy, the Hapless Knitter. (You'll meet Happy, shortly.)

If I have omitted anyone’s favorite Aran yarn in the whole world, I humbly apologize. Same with stitch patterns – if your all-time delight wasn’t included, please accept my deepest regrets. We got a lot but couldn't get them all. Of course, you can submit any comments through the comment function, and if you have a yarn you want to tell us about, e-mail me with pictures, etc.

What This Is
This is a discussion and demonstration of the elements that combine to create stitch definition (SD), and establish clarity and pattern recognition. No single element stands on its own, and any of the combination of elements can be manipulated and modified to produce the desired effect, will differ greatly between knitters.

What This Isn't – The Top Ten

#1: It is not a coronation of the one “perfect or best” yarn for knitting Arans.
#2: It is not an opportunity to point out bad examples, except in the places where a little comic relief is inserted.
#3: It does not include a discussion of Bobbles, which are another entire subject, and others have already done a much better job explaining them, than I can do. Besides, I don’t much like them.
#4: It is not an attempt to endorse any particular manufacturer’s product, but an offering of many alternatives, for the participant to consider.
#5: It is not an attempt to show you what a great expert I am on SD, or what complex swatches I can knit. I have studiously looked for stitch patterns that best display the yarns, and some simple patterns do that nicely.
#6: It is not a scholarly discourse, so we’ll have a bit of fun with it. No need to get too serious – right?
#7 It is not exhaustive of anything, yarns, patterns or techniques. In fact, the Comments are enabled for you to create your own addenda for things you believe I missed.
#8 It is not a particularly independent study. See the Bibliograpy.

Did I say Ten? I must have meant Eight.

Photo galleries: Be sure to click on the thumbnails, and the full-sized photo will come up

Elements of Textured Knitting

There is one stitch, and its name is Knit. Maggie Righetti

Regardless of what we do in a pattern, it all starts with the knit stitch, an unimposing little stitch, sitting casually on the left-hand needle with its right “leg” forward, as the knitter looks at it. For the purposes of this discussion, that is the starting point. The leading leg of the stitch is the right leg, and the stitches move from the left needle to the right needle. That puts us all on the same page of the knitting songbook. There are other stitch mounts, but that is the one used here.

Textured knitting, from ganseys to the most complicated traveling stitches of today’s celtic knots, is probably an outgrowth of the English and Scottish gansey traditions. Most species love patterns, both the comforting repetition of one known, and the challenge of something new. Indeed, the lack of ability to recognize and respond to pattern, may be considered ominous. Patterning in knitting, gave identity to the wearer, ornamentation amidst a drab backdrop of fishing, crofts and peat, and as stitches began to be twisted and layered, additional warmth. Added to those benefits, are the spiritual and recreational aspects of knitting, starting wiith the knit stitch, and its mirrored clone, purl.

Manipulating knits and purls to form patterns and sometimes give the impression of objects or movement, is brocade patterning. There are many examples of brocade in the earlier gansey tradition and later, in Arans. While this may seem a simple place to begin, if a yarn doesn't stand up and salute you in knit and purl patterns, there is no reason to think it will do so in more complicated designs.

To view examples of knit and purl patterns in gansey weight yarns, click on "Gansey Yarns," on the left under "photos".

The yarns traditionally used in gansey patterning are approximately sport weight, with a high, hard twist, that enhances the pattern. Typically, they are worked to a very tight gauge (often called "bulletproof",) ensuring a fabric that stretches little, and that shows off and maintains its pattern for centuries, in addition to being virtually waterproof, and warm even when wet.

When Aran designs came along, adding actual movement in the form of cables, traditional knit and purl combinations were incorporated, probably for contrast, and all the other reasons given above for patterning.

To view examples of traditional gansey patterns knit in Aran and worsted weight yarns, click on "Aran Knits and Purls," left.

Another possibility for knit and purl patterning are representational patterns, such as key, sculptured pictures, and patterns with a woven appearance. Once thought to have been based on illuminated manuscripts, such as the Book of Kells, Celtic key motifs are more likely to simply be a useful design element, in spite of their often labyrinthine appearance.

For an example, click on Aran Pictures on the left.

The Hapless Knitter View image


Oh dear, here's Happy, already. She's sweet, but really a "Hapless Knitter." She wants to show you her latest creation: Her self-patterning Fair Isle gansey swatch. She certainly included some elements of gansey patterning, if you can just make them out. Look, there's that marker she lost, knit right into the swatch. Happy has been having a little trouble with her knitting lately, as you'll see.

Hap1


Gotta Get a Move On -- Cables, Twists, and Knots

Or, Don’t Get Your Twist in a Knot:

Twists Again:

My fantasy about simple twists, is that the first time it happened was an accident. I can just hear the knitter – “Oh drat, Mum, look what I did on those stitches six rows down! How’d I get my needle into that second stitch?” You know the rest of the story. There are many simple twists that can be used to enhance textured knitting, with very little trouble, and some that aren't so simple. To see swatches of simple twists, knit in a variety of yarn types and colors, click on “Twists” on the left.

You get a lot of decoration for little effort with the twist, which doesn’t require a cable needle, and generally works up quickly.

Cables:

As with twists, cables add a lot of decoration, with only a bit more trouble, and are a major element in providing the dynamic perception of motion that I get when I look at an Aran pattern. They don’t just look like they move – they move, and add great variety to a garment, as well as warmth, by layering the fabric. They can range from the simple to the very complex, incorporating additional patterning within the cable itself, and adding other elements such as lace. Hearty souls even do them without a cable needle, and you can too, after the great Aran VC tutorial by the same name. You can view a variety of cables by clicking on Cables on the left.

Knots:

Knots are definitely more trouble, but they have a big payoff in compliments. I strongly suspect they fulfill any subconscious desire the knitter may have to work crossword or jigsaw puzzles. They depend greatly on the contrast achieved by knitting them on a purl background. Along with the key patterns, the inspiration for them has been attributed to illuminated manuscripts. They range from rather plain, to the very complex. You can see some knots by clicking on “Knots” to the left.

Slipped Stitches:

Cables may be achieved by using slipped stitches to create the movement. The knitter may or may not use a cable hook or not. To see an example of slipped stitch cables, click on Slipped Stitch Cable, left.

TUNE IN AGAIN, TOMORROW

We’ll take all of the above patterns and break them down into their individual elements and determine how to manipulate them to achieve the effect we desire in our Arans. And, we won't always be seeking the same effect in each project.

The Hapless Knitter View image


I'm not sure what effect Happy was seeking when she knit her mohair tweed ladder and cable swatch, but here it is:
Hapmoh.JPG


Day II: Choosing the Yarns

Today will be more than a stash enhancement lesson, I promise you,

Design Elements

I only want to touch on the element of design for two reasons: (1) I'm not a designer, and (2) Flory is going to handle that in her program. It seems to me that the most successful designs are those that maintain some equilibrium between the principles of contrast, and symmetry. Many Aran stitch motifs rely heavily on the distinction between the moving stitches and their background. Combining a lot of pattern motifs tends to make the design appear too "busy" and the pattern look less distinct. Here is an example of a design submitted by Jane Bynum, who says

The wool in the gray sweater was a mixture of black merino and something white that's almost as fine. It came from my mother's friend's daughter's sheep, and was custom spun on an antique mule. The heathery nature makes it hard to photograph, but you can see that the simpler pattern on the back has much better definition than the more complicated one on the front, and the small cables just disappear. The sweater is about 12 years old, and has been washed fairly frequently. It hasn't pilled, but it has fulled enough to cover a lot of detail.

Barn-Sweater-Front.JPG

Here is the back view: Barn-Sweater-Back


We need contrast to draw our eye to the pattern, and symmetry to tie it all together for us. All that said, sometimes the knitter may well have a more subtle vision, wanting just the hint of a symbol. Here is a Classic Elite pattern knit from La Gran mohair --

lace_knitting_028.jpg


Plenty of symmetry there, but contrast has been manipulated to achieve a particular look. While we think of the traditional Aran "look" as being tightly knit, sharp stitches, that certainly isn't the only Aran vision.

The Hapless Knitter : Happy still seems to have some contrast issues aran_vc3_004


Spinning Yarns

Now, I wouldn't have to write two sentences before you would realize that I don't know a thing about spinning. I know some people who are very knowledgeable on the subject, however, and I've studied a bit, so I'll pass on what I've learned, and what I'm still learning about yarns.

Suzanne Correira from Fire Ant Ranch in Elgin Texas who spun the beautiful Corriedale yarn wrote:

Relatively firm twist, and firm plying contribute to stitch definition definitely. And a worsted spun yarn, as opposed to a woolen spun yarn (combed as opposed to carded). Some carded can show definition and be nice too, but ballpark, the combed yarns do it better. On the other hand, carded yarns, being fluffier, are warmer because they hold more air.

Firmly twisted yarns that are plied, are generally thought to contribute the most to stitch definition, especially when knit firmly, for the traditional Aran style. You can see from the various photographs, that other styles may also be very pleasing. One good source for a bit of basic information regarding the spinning characteristics of yarns, is "Knitting in the Old Way," the new edition by Priscilla Gibson-Roberts. She discusses the woolen and worsted twists. Most of the yarns used for this presentation are worsted twists.

We all long for buttery soft yarns that will show off pattern beautifully, but if sharp stitch definition is the objective, some of the softness may need to be sacrificed. You can compare the visual differences in the photo galleries:

100% Wool
Superwash
Wool Blends
Non-wools

Color Characteristics:

ericas_cardi.JPG

This is Erica Raspberry's dramatic Alice Starmore Memorial Cardigan.

Here is a close-up of the cables: ASmemorial


Light and Dark

We all know the frustration of looking in the knitting magazine or book, only to find that a particular design has been knit in so dark a shade of navy, or worse-yet black, that we can't make out the pattern motifs. Of course, choosing patterns is very different from wearing a finished sweater, so navy or black may be exactly right. I always wonder though, "What didn't they want me to see?" about a particular design when it is obscured by dark color. The traditional bainin, off-white, color was ideal for showing off a particular pattern motif, but knitters have a full palate of colors for textured knitting.

I think color is another case where, "The knit's the thing." The old rule of thumb, that if a yarn won't show off pattern in a knit and purl pattern, it won't do well for other more complex motifs, works here. Take the guernsey (or gansey, I never know which) yarns, for instance. They are perfectly spun for patterning. The only variables to manipulate with them are color and pattern. The navy is a little dark for pattern, but very popular in ganseys for subtle patterning, just the same. The mid-range of colors, though they are sometimes limited, maintain a very high level of stitch definition, and the red shades, seen to soak up the pattern, depending on the light environment. Go back and look at the Gansey Yarn gallery again, and compare the effects of color, especially light and dark, on pattern clarity.

Here's another perspective: Trio

Three swatches, all knit from Plymouth Encore, the only difference is the color. Submitted by Patricia.


Heathers & Tweeds

Heathers and tweeds can be used to marvelous advantage in textured knitting, and there are a number of examples in the galleries. All of the Shetland yarns have wonderful ranges in heathers, and some tweeds. Notice how they deal with pattern, making it slightly more subtle, but still clearly visible.

Yarn Finish

Whether the yarn finish is shiny or dull will affect the ultimate appearance of the garment. Although one might reason that a shiny yarn would show off the pattern, that may not be the case, as with this bit of Wensleydale longwool, an extremely shiny, soft 100% wool. It is gorgeous to touch, but light seems to bounce right off that shiny surface.

wens.JPG

Now, compare that to cables knit in the same wool, only in navy: wennav

The Hapless Knitter View image


Happy is back with her color swatch! aran_vc3_009


Techniques for Enhancing Stitch Definition

Once the knitter has carefully considered all the design elements, the characteristics of the yarn, etc., there is still one more little thing that can be done to enhance stitch definition: Selective Twisting of Stitches

Twisting for Enhancement:

Twisting, or knitting the back leg of the knit stitch, causes the stitch to become slightly more prominent vertically (embossed). Twisting a purl stitch causes it to become more prominent horizontally. Thus, if a vertical column of stitches is selectively twisted, it will be more prominent -- right? True, but only if that great old principle contrast is observed. You don't want to twist too many stitches, or naturally they'll all look alike! Here is an example of selective twisting of stitches, the front of Alice Starmore's Fern design, from the Stillwater collection.

hearts.JPG

It is pretty easy to see the difference between the highly twisted diamond stitches and ferns, and the hearts, which are not twisted. The large hearts might well overwhelm the other motifs, without the twisting, but that's what designers are for -- right?

Twist after a Cable:

Often, there is a slightly looser purl stitch following a cable, due to the tension caused by the movement of the cable stitches. There are some techniques to help that:

(1) Purl the first stitch after the cable as you normally would, purl the second stitch. pulling it a bit more tightly, snugging it up. That is about the most I ever do, since I've noticed over the years, that with washing, those looser purls tend to equilize and look fine.

(2) Often, we speak of wanting the cable to "pop," and many knitters will twist the first purl stitch after the cable, which gives it what? A horizontal pull -- that's right! -- and the cable will likely stand up just a little more. I do this at times, depending on the cable. Look back through the cable pictures and see if you can tell which swatches have a twisted stitch after the cable and which don't. I know, but only because I wrote it down! I think this works well for me in somewhat "busy" patterns, to help differentiate one group from another.

(3) I understand that some people also wrap the yarn opposite from the usual wrap on the first purl stitch after the cable, and here I must completely display my ignorance. I tried it and can't make it work, so I must not be doing it correctly. Anyone who wants to explain or demonstrate is more than welcomed to add their part. I'll be happy to download it. I kept coming up with something I'd rather not discuss, though!

Yarn Content

I have created some photo galleries of yarns that display four types: 100% wool, superwash, wool blends, and non-wools. Please take a look at them and see what you think. It is hardly fair to look at yarn content online, with the differences in monitors, etc., and as much as I'd love to bring the swatches to everyone's house -- let's don't even go there. Clearly, the big thing you miss is being able to feel the yarn, and I am reluctant to say, "scratchy" or "soft," being aware how subjective that is. One person's scratchy is fine to someone else.

100% Wools: What can I say, these are my all-time favorites for knitting. I love them better than any other yarns, and they hold up over time so well. Of course, living in Texas, I have about a 1/2 day chance of ever getting to wear them, and I recognize that there are people who can't wear wool, and/or people who can't wash wool. Thus, the

Superwash Wools: This group actually surprised me. There are several yarns in this group that not only patterned beautifully, but felt good in my hands as I knit. There is quite a range for superwash, and it is a good choice for people who just can't be trusted with a washing machine and a sweater in the same house, and young moms with babies, who just don't have the time.

Wool Blends: Some of these wools+ turned out very well, too.

Non-Wools: Not my favorite for knitting, but there is a bit of cotton. My hands don't hold up to knit cotton anymore, so there isn't much of it in this study. I have seen Arans made with Brown Sheep Cotton Fleece, and they looked very good. If anyone has a cotton Aran they'd love to show off, send in a photo, and I'll add it to the gallery.

Chunky/Bulky Wools: I have had a request for some swatches in chunky yarns, and a supplier has sent me some, so I will do a few swatches, to be added in a couple of days. This program will remain open for your perusal for some time.

Happy knitted us one closing swatch, and she says she twisted all the right stitches: aran_vc3_002


Summing It All Up, or You Can't Really Sum It Up!

There is a yarn and a stitch pattern for every Aran knitter's vision of their "perfect" Aran. Those visions range from the very traditional to the far-out ('Way beyond the Hebrides?), and it is up to us whether we start with a broad vision, that refines to become more traditional, or whether we enlarge an exclusively traditional vision to include other possibilities. One way or another, most of us will meet in the middle somewhere, and continue to create masterpieces, whatever they are. To quote Maggie Righetti one more time:

And the results are textured treasures, some serving very useful and practical purposes, some simply delightful because they're fun to look at, all of them interesting.

I wish you interesting knitting.
MEM



Bibliography

Brown-Reinsel, B. Knitting Ganseys. Interweave Press, Loveland, CO, 1993

Compton, R. The Complete Book of Traditional Knitting. Scribner, NY, 1984

Hiatt, J.H. The Principles of Knitting. Simon & Schuster, NY, 1988.

Pearson, M. Traditional Knitting: Aran, Fair Isle and Fisher Ganseys.Van Nostrand Reinhold Co., NY, 1984

Righetti, M. Knitting in Plain English St. Martin’s, NY, 1986

Righetti, M. Sweater Design in Plain English. St. Martin’s, NY, 1990

Starmore, A. Aran Knitting. Interweave Press, Loveland, CO, 1997.

Starmore, A. The Celtic Collection. Trafalger, N.Pomfret, VT, 1993.

Thompson, G. Patterns for Guernseys, Jerseys & Arans. 3rd edition, Dover Publications, Inc., NY, 1979

Walker, B.G. Charted Knitting Designs Schoolhouse Press, Pittsville, WI, 1998

Walker, B.G. A Treasury of Knitting Designs. Schoolhouse Press, Pittsville, WI, 1988

220 Aran Stitches The Harmony Guide, Ed., Trafalgar Square, N. Pomfret, VT, 1998

450 Stitches The Harmony Guide, Ed., Trafalgar Square, N. Pomfret, VT, 1998


Note: Another excellent resource is the Knitting Beyond the Hebrides photo gallery, under Texture.

Copyright 2004 by Mary English Morrison. All rights reserved. The material provided in this program is for non-commercial use, only. Photographs submitted by members of Knitting Beyond the Hebrides remain the property of their owners