Step 1: Make a Swatch
Choose the yarn you wish to use, keeping in mind that yarns with around 20% nylon or other acrylic hold up best in socks. Also keep in mind the shoes with which you intend to wear the socks. Thin yarns make thinner socks (laceweight through sportweight), and thicker yarns (DK on up) make socks that can only be worn with Birkies, boots, or no shoes at all.
CO at least 40 stitches on a needle that is small enough to give a dense, close knit. A good rule of thumb is to use needles at least 2 sizes smaller than those recommended on the ball band, and if you are a very loose knitter, maybe smaller yet. As much as fit, denseness of the knitted fabric is a major aspect of comfort in socks. Loosely knit socks feel like one is walking on sand. Knit in stockinette stitch for several inches (usually 4").
When you've completed your swatch, measure it to see how many stitches you got per inch and inspect it to see if the fabric is dense enough. If the fabric is not sufficiently dense, continue on the swatch with a smaller needle, until the swatch is quite dense. (Note: If changing the needles size is insufficient to get a dense fabric, try working with your fingers well down on the points of the needles to tighten up a bit.) When you are satisfied with the swatch, measure the number of stitches per inch and record that number:
Stitches per inch:
Step 2: Calculations
Take some measurements of your foot, if you haven't done so lately.
Number of inches around the ankle:
Number of inches around the foot at it's widest point (Width):
Number of inches from the end of the heel to the end of the great toe (Length):
Calculate the number of stitches to cast on for your sock:
Stitch gauge X Width = Number of stitches to cast on.
Note: Adjust this calculation upward or downward to the nearest number equally divisible by 4, to facilitate placement of stitches on the needles. I find it better to adjust downward rather than upward, unless it is a lot of stitches.
Step 3: Start the Sock
Cast on your magic number of stitches in K2, P2 ribbing (See Cast On Workshop), or as loosely as you can. This is the top of the sock, and it needs to be loose. Divide the stitches up evenly on 4 of your 5 needles.
Join the work:
a. Lay the work (4 needles with cast-on stitches) down in a square on a flat surface.
b. Have the last stitch you cast on, at the end of the 4th needle with both ends of yarn coming off. Have the first stitch you cast on at the beginning of the 1st needle (Going counter-clockwise). The loose piece of yarn will be your landmark for the beginning of the round.
c. Make sure the bumpy, cast-on edge is turned to the center of the circle to avoid twisting. No one can wear a Mobius sock.
d. Take the 5th needle and knit into the first stitch on the 1st needle. You have joined the work in a round. This is the hardest stitch you will ever take -- for a little while. It will become second nature to you, as you polish your skills.
Continue to knit the cuff of the sock in rounds, K2, P2 ribbing (or the ribbing of your choice), until you have a long enough cuff to suit you. You can make the ribbing as narrow as 1", or as wide as you like, giving a generous turn-down cuff. The choice is yours. You will probably need at least 6-7" before you are ready to start making the heel. Stop at the end of the round, where the yarn tail hangs down.
Step 4: Make the Heel
Heel Flap:
Starting at the end of the round, lay down your extra needle (needle 5) and knit plain across the stitches on needle 1, using needle 4. That will put all the heel stitches on one needle. Now, you will be knitting flat, back and forth, for awhile. Turn your work. This will create a heel flap. Work the following 2 rows until you have a sufficient heel flap. The heel flap should have about the same number of rows, as you have on your needle, or at least 2".
a. Row 1: Sl1 as to purl, purl to the end of the row; turn the work.
b. Row 2: Sl1 as to purl, Knit 1, Slip 1 (as to purl) across the row; turn the work.
Continue the above 2 rows until you have a sufficient heel flap. They constitute a "heel stitch" which is very cushy and adds a lot of comfort and wear to socks.
Turning the Heel:
End with Row 1 (above) worked, turn the work and purl to the end of the row. Knit 1/2 the number of stitches you have on your needle plus one stitch, then:
a. SSK (Sl 2 stitches separately as to knit, and knit them through the backs of the loops.) K1 and turn the work.
b. Sl 1 as to purl, p4, p2tog, p1; turn the work.
c. Sl 1, as to purl, knit to within one stitch of the gap; SSK (using the stitches on either side of the gap); K1; turn the work.
d. Sl 1, as to purl, p to within 1 stitch of the gap; p2tog (using the stitches on either side of the gap); p1; turn the work.
Continue with rows c and d until all the edge stitches are used up and you have the original number of stitches on the needle. (i.e., the number of stitches you had on each of the 4 needles to begin with.)
Step 5: Make the Gusset
Pick up and knit a stitch under every stitch where you can see the chain along the heel flap. You must pick up at least as many stitches as you had on each needle to begin with, but there will almost certainly be a few more.
Continue knitting across the instep stitch needles 2 and 3. You are once again knitting in the round -- no more turning the work. When you get to the other heel flap edge (needle 4), pick up and knit a stitch under each chain as on needle 1. Don't worry if there aren't the same number of stitches in both gussets, we'll fix it as we go.
Knit one round plain. Remember, these are not rows now, they are rounds. Note that your round begins in the middle of the heel.
Work the following 2 rounds until you have the same number of stitches on your two heel needles, at the same time, continuing to work your pattern on the two instep needles:
a. Round 1: Knit to the last 3 stitches on needle 1; K2tog; K1. Knit across the instep needles. On needle 4, K1, SSK, K to the end of the round.
b. Round 2: Knit 1 round plain.
When you have decreased to the same number of stitches on the heel needles as you started with on each needle, continue knitting in your pattern round and round, until your sock measures about 2 inches less than your foot length measurement.
Step 6: Making the Toe
Work the 2 following rounds until you have 8 stitches on each needle. Starting at the beginning of the round:
a. Round 1: Knit to the last 3 stitches on needle 1; K2tog, K1. Go to needle 2 and K1, SSK, K to the end of needle 2. K to the last 3 stitches on needle 3, K2tog, K1. K1, SSK, K to the end of needle 4.
b. Round 2: K one round plain.
When you have a total of 8 stitches on each needle, repeat round 1 above until you have 2 stitches on each needle. Break the end of the yarn, thread a blunt needle and run the yarn through the remaining 8 stitches. Pull yarn and needle down through the hole in the toe, drawing it fairly tight, and closing it. Fasten off the yarn and bury the end in the instep. (Note: Always try to bury any yarn ends in the top of the sock not the sole, so that you aren't walking on them.)
Now, you have a sock!
Step 7: Make Another Sock
Should you fall victim to "Second Sock Syndrome," simply make the second sock first. That will take care of it.
General Sock Tips:
There might be a good reason for making socks that don't match. Feel free to experiment if you have one foot larger than the other. You can take new measurements and make a right and left sock. If you have a narrow instep, or a narrow heel, you can compensate for that by changing to a smaller needle in those areas. Often, adding pattern with some ribbing will snug up a narrow instep. You just have to experiment some and figure out which techniques work well for you.
Some people calculate the number of stitches to cast on, and then subtract 25%. I suspect those are the people with narrow feet.
I recommend reinforcing heels and toes with a carry along thread such as those made by Socka, or Wooly Nylon. Clever yarn manufacturers sometimes put a bit of reinforcement fiber with their socks.
I recommend turning in and making another pair of socks, as soon as your first pair is done. That will reinforce what you have learned, and increase your confidence in making socks.
You will be able to take the very basic sock pattern above and incorporate many design features and patterns into it, such as lace, cables, textures, color, etc. The only limit is your own imagination. Whenever you can use pattern elements that include ribbing into the instep portion of the sock, your sock will fit even better. To avoid ladders, give the second stitch on each needle a gentle pull, to snug it up. Using 5 rather than 4 needles helps to ensure that you don't have ladders, too.
Good Sock Knitting,
MEM
All copyright and other rights reserved to Mary English Morrison, a/k/a/ The Little Yarn Shoppe of Horrors. Not for commercial use.
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