This cast-on is my all time favorite, but I can't take credit for it. The first time I saw it described was in the book, "The Right Way to Knit," by Evelyn Stewart. Ms. Stewart's books were published by Brunswick in the 1960's and 1970's, and I used them extensively in teaching myself new knitting skills. Although, I think the titles are a little unfortunate, the books are packed with excellent teaching and advice. I give Mrs. Stewart the credit for this technique.
I call this "Casting on in pattern stitch," and I've found over almost 40 years of use, that it works for almost everything. The only time you really need a different cast on is for a provisional cast on or a tubular cast on. Here's how it goes:
It is a variation of a long-tailed cast on. You start with a slip stitch:
To Cast on a Knit Stitch
Snug the loop down on the needle. The end of yarn attached to the ball goes off to your right. The loose end goes to your left. (If you are accustomed to wrapping a finger-eight around your index finger and thumb for the long tailed cast-on, we won't do that with this one.)
Make a loop over your left index finger and pretend it is a knit stitch. Going from front to back, knit a stitch off of your index finger, using the yarn in your right hand. Don't make it difficult; it's just a knit stitch, nothing more.
Wrap, as you would any other knit stitch, and pull the needle from back to front, drawing the new stitch off your left index finger.
Snug that stitch down on your needle by pulling on the yarn in your left hand, and look -- there is the knit stitch. It will look smooth to you, along the bottom edge.
Practice making several of those. It is just knitting.
Now, to Cast on the Purl Stitch:
Continue using a loop around your index finger. Move the yarn in your right hand to the front, as though you were going to purl, because you are.
Here, the yarn is draped over the left index finger, and the yarn in the right hand has been moved from the back to the front of the work, so that you can purl.

Put your needle from the back to the front of the loop, and wrap with the yarn in your right hand, exactly as you do when you purl. Remember, this is just knitting and purling.
Snug your stitch down by pulling on the loose yarn in your left hand. You can see the "purl" at the front of this stitch. Now, practice making several more, until it just feels like purling to you.
Casting on Ribbing
To cast on ribbing, simply cast on 2 knit stitches and 2 purl stitches until you have the desired number. (Or whatever ribbing you want.) You will wind up with an edge that looks something like this:
You can see that the continuous knit chain that results from the normal long tailed cast-on doesn't exist here. This is the top of a sock, and it is very stretchy, yet retains its original shape when washed.
This cast-on may look a little loose to you at first, but after it is washed, it will look just like knitting and purling. It is particularly appropriate to use for socks, hats and gloves -- anything where you need some flexibility, but not floppiness.
MEM
Copyright and all rights reserved to Mary English Morrison, a/k/a "The Little Yarn Shoppe of Horrors."
!!! Oh, thank you!
I have been fighting with a tubular cast on for a ribbed sweater I'm making out of my handspun...it worked well for the bottom, but was very tight and not good for the sleeves. So, I found this! And it works so nicely!
Thanks! Lovely pictures, too. =)
Posted by: Brianna Flynn | March 13, 2005 at 10:59 PM
Thank you so much for putting this on the web. I own the second volume of "the right way to knit" books but not the first. It references the 1st several times, esp about casting on in pattern stitch. I couldn't find info about this cast on any where else.
Posted by: Clara | November 04, 2005 at 01:51 PM
Thank you for putting this out there. Real interesting. Excellent tutorial, real clear with nice pictures.
I haven't seen it anywhere before. I just tried on a new pair of socks that I cast on. Not sure if I notice any difference....
Posted by: Kenny | January 21, 2006 at 11:54 PM
Howdy Mary,
I'm fixin' to see but wondered if you've already figured out a cast OFF that would match this cast on? I'm thinkin' the picot cast off would be the place to start.
Hope things are well with you next door.
from Louisiana,
Posted by: Aarlene | October 19, 2006 at 06:46 PM
thank you Mem! My grandmother taught me to cast on this way, but I haven't - until this moment - been able to find it "written down". ..cjb
Posted by: Colleen | June 01, 2009 at 06:33 PM
Thank you so much. I found so many other very complicated ways to do this other places. Once I got used to it the cast on was perfect for starting the ribbing on my little hat project. Thanks again.
Posted by: Lisa | July 02, 2010 at 09:18 PM